Hello, All! Today, I am about to share a secret with you all! It is about the legendary spice mix of Corfu that’s called ‘spetseriko’ and is used in pasta dishes.
For centuries, since the Venetian occupation of the island, spetseriko has been made by pharmacists on the island and everyone kept their recipe a secret. Well, today I am sharing the address of a traditional pharmacy in Corfu town where you can still buy spetseriko today!
And, I am also sharing a recipe that I found online (translated from Greek) so you can prepare the mix in the comfort of your own kitchen!
But first… to share a little about Corfu town itself… Are you ready for a little tour? Let’s go!
Last month, my husband and I spent a few days in my beloved village of Moraitika on Corfu. One morning, we drove to the island capital (Corfu town).
Our day started with the must-have coffee at Liston–the famous vaulted street which was made during the French Occupation of Corfu. The French modelled it after Rue Rivoli in Paris. The old town quarter with its stunning antiquated buildings and the large square of Spianada remain silent witnesses to the history of Corfu.
In succession, the island was occupied first by the Venetians, who made the Old and the New Fortress, then the English, to whom we owe the beautiful greenery at the Old Square (Spianada) as well as the cricket green before Liston where the Brits taught the Corfiots how to play cricket!
Finally, the French, the last foreign occupants on the island, decorated the Spianada with gorgeous architecture. I’ve already mentioned Liston, which they constructed, and they also made the round edifice with the colonade all around it that still stands at the end of the square beyond the bandstand.
Speaking of Liston, did you know that in the old days there was a thing called Libro D’ Oro which is Italian for ‘Golden Book’? The names of all the aristocrats were listed in it. And only people whose name was in the Libro D’ Oro were allowed to walk along the street of Liston! Talk about keeping the riff-raff away, LOL. Things were pretty strict back then!
Anyway… During our visit, we enjoyed the generous sea views from the garden of the Old Palace such as the one you see above. All around these grounds, there are marvelous vistas that compel the visitors to use their cameras. This summer, there were two art exhibitions housed on two different sides of the palace. Buying one ticket gave you access to both, and they were delightfully diverse, which was a bonus.
My favourite was a homage to the Greek Revolution in 1821 which depicted in paintings mostly prominent figures from that time. The other exhibition involved paintings of contemporary themes by a single lady artist. I loved the flowers she painted especially. Stunning stuff. I don’t know for how long these exhibitions will be at the palace, but if you are on the island, they are well worth a visit.
SEE ALL THE PHOTOS ON FACEBOOK
During our day in town, we made sure to visit this old pharmacy… to buy a spice mix for pasta!!!!
During my long summer stays in Moraitika in the 1980s, my granny was forever taking my sister and me for a walk around Corfu town and for a spot of shopping too. She never missed visiting this old pharmacy just off San Rocco Square. It’s situated on the right side of the road, just after the square, heading towards Liston and the old town quarter.
I hadn’t been in there for many years, but I never forgot Granny referred to it as ‘the Pitsilos pharmacy’. As I stood at its facade, I realised at once it had been heavily renovated and guessed it was under new management too. Going inside, I saw the antiquated cabinets I recalled from the old days where no longer there, but I have to admit the new decoration was just as beautiful and paid homage to the pharmacy’s long-standing tradition on the island.
Before I knew it, I was asking the owner about the name ‘Pitsilos’ and he didn’t seem to know it in relation to the property. Then again, he was very young, in his 30s I would think, and if my granny was alive today she’d be 99 years old. So, she probably had seen this place change hands more than once during her lifetime. The kindly owner, other than selling me a large sachet of spetseriko much to my delight, told me that, as far as he knew, the pharmacy was owned previously by a lady called Carmella. When I asked around later on, other locals confirmed that name and some still refer to it as ‘Carmella’s pharmacy’.
None seem to have heard of the name Pitsilos, though, but since Granny had a sharp memory till the day she died at 92, I can only give her the benefit of the doubt. Perhaps it was owned by a pharmacist called Pitsilos much earlier in time. After all, the place was founded in 1915 according to the writing on the facade. And a website I found claimed it was in operation back in 1850!
Chatting with locals on Facebook about this place, I found out that a few decades back, at least one doctor used to work from this pharmacy in the evenings. I can only guess that every day people didn’t have easy access to doctors back then. Visiting a pharmacy and getting some advice from a doctor rather than having to visit a remote hospital or a costly private surgery, may have been easier to afford and provided many with prompt access to medical care.
Apparently, in the old days, all pharmacists in Corfu made spetseriko and they were called ‘spetsierides’ because of this. The word ‘spetseriko’ has Venetian origin. It is derived from the word ‘speci’ which means ‘spices’. Every pharmacist had their own recipe for spetseriko back in the day, and, at least this specific pharmacy I visited, which still seems to make it, keeps theirs a secret to this day.
By the way, the owner of the pharmacy today is Mr Skiadopoulos and the address is Georgiou Theotoki 56, San Rocco Square – in case you wish to have your own sachet of spetseriko!
I put my recent purchase to the test the first time I made Bolognese and it was as divine as I can remember. I cannot wait to try it also in Pastichio like my granny did too. She also made the best Pastitsada with spetseriko. I urgy you to try it if you cook any of the aforementioned meals, or in any tomato sauce for pasta.
Just use very little at first, and see how you go. Perhaps 1/4 of a teaspoon at first. I once made a mistake of putting 1 teaspoon in my Pastichio and it made me VERY ill. Do not try this, folks, unless you’re sure you have the system to take a large amount. As it was proven, I don’t 🙂
And, hey, did I say you don’t have to visit Corfu to get spetseriko? As it turns out, there are recipes online! I found a Greek blog that shares an easy-to-follow recipe. I’ve translated it into English for you. Enjoy!
10 gr ground clove
50 gr ground cinnamon
50 gr ground nutmeg
70 gr sweet paprika
50 gr ground cumin
20 gr spicy chilli powder (i.e. spicy ‘boukovo’, ground)
100 gr sweet chilli powder (i.e. sweet ‘boukovo’, ground)
20 gr ground allspice balls (i.e. ‘bahari’)
30 medium laurel leaves (ground to fine powder)
25 gr ground black pepper
Mix the ingredients together well, and keep in a sealed jar in a cool place.
Sources for the recipe: SecretKitchenandTravel.gr and AtCorfu.com
Note: I found other recipes too, and each one had more or less the same ingredients but with different measurements and proportions, but it’s worth saying this: All the others I found omitted the laurel leaves and advised to add 2 laurel leaves in the pot with the spetseriko. I would go for that option, personally, but it’s up to you!
Interested to see more of Corfu town? Check out this older post of mine. Magnificent vistas in Garitsa & Anemomylos, the stunning old quarter of Campielo, and a traditional soap factory. Enjoy!
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